Materials
Leather Grades Explained: Full-Grain to Suede
What full-grain, top-grain, nappa, suede and nubuck actually mean, how they differ, and which leather suits which product.
“Leather” covers a wide range of materials with very different properties. Choosing the right grade is the single biggest decision in a leather product’s look, durability and cost. Here is what the common terms mean.
Full-grain
The uncorrected top layer of the hide, with the natural grain intact. It is the strongest and most characterful leather, develops a patina over years of use, and is the choice for belts, structured bags and heritage jackets.
Top-grain
The top layer lightly sanded and finished for an even surface and consistent colour. It is durable and uniform — well suited to structured goods and consistent production runs where colour must match across a batch.
Nappa
A soft, full-grain or corrected leather (often lambskin) finished for a smooth, supple hand. Nappa lambskin is the material of record for luxury jackets, gloves and our signature leather socks.
Suede and nubuck
Suede is buffed from the underside of a split or top grain for a velvet nap; nubuck is the grain side of top-grain sanded to a fine nap — more durable than suede. Both suit jackets, bags and accessories.
Goatskin and exotics
Goatskin is fine-grained, tenacious and pebbled — prized for gloves and small goods. Certified exotic skins are used for statement pieces and watch straps, with full CITES-compliant documentation.
Choosing a grade
The best way to decide is to compare leathers side by side. We can send swatches or a reference sample, then match your order to the right grade and tannery — request a sample or see our materials overview.